Penguins at Oamaru February 17, 2000
Not many people realize that there are penguins in New Zealand. There are several varieties that can be seen along the southeastern coast. At Oamaru there's a large colony of little blue penguins, the world's smallest, less than a foot high. Our travels around the South Island would be incomplete without viewing these rare birds in the wild.
The penguins leave the colony at around 4:30 a.m. and fish a few kilometers offshore all day. That makes visiting them a nighttime activity. During the summer, they start returning ashore at about 9:30 p.m. We arrive at about 8:15 and pay $4 each for bleacher seats to the action. It's about 55 degrees with a light wind. All told, there are about 100 people sitting in two small grandstands waiting expectantly. Amazingly, I'm the only one sporting a large warm wooly blanket!
The area the penguins are supposed to traverse is floodlit by yellow beams. They must cross a rocky beach, climb a path up about 8 feet through small boulders, and then walk across a gravel lot to reach the grassy dunes they call home. The penguins arrive on incoming waves in groups of 4-6, called rafts. 20 or 30 penguins are expected tonight. The colony has about 200 penguins, but the rest are either modest, molting indoors, or young 'uns, still confined to home. There are also 5000 more penguins down the beach, living outside the limelight.
After nearly 45 minutes, it's possible we might have seen a part of a penguin based on a bit of movement in a dark hole between two rocks on the beach about fifty yards away. We figure the penguins are starting to move around and get excited. They know their friends and loved ones will be home soon since the usual welcoming party of humans has arrived. Several rabbits have put in an appearance, and I think I spotted a rat scurrying to cover behind a nearby boulder, so don't be imagining that this all sounds a bit dull.
Finally the action begins. Four penguins flounder onto the beach and waddle their way to the boulders. They start the 8-foot climb up, not easy for a little penguin. At the top, they rest for about 5 to 10 minutes, drying their feathers and apparently chit chatting about the catch of the day and the big ones that got away. One penguin eventually decides it's time to cross the 60 feet of gravel to the colony's nesting area. Oops, no one's following, so back he comes. Another 5 minutes, and then the entire group waddles their way toward the mounds with little rectangular openings where they nest.
More penguins are arriving now. Pairs of little guys and gals -- they're mostly monogamous -- alternate days on the water with days at home caring for the eggs or chicks. The penguins follow the same routine every day - from shore to nest, the same pathway up the rocks (conveniently marked with a big white arrow for us onlookers,) and the same long rest at the top. Eventually, another 12 or so are together at the top. These also rest a bit and then waddle home. The sight really is pretty cool.
While all this other activity is going on, one penguin seems to have gone astray. He made shore just below us and, not being shy, treated us to an up close and personal look. He stopped about 3 feet away and stayed there as long as we did, just looking up at us. Perhaps he was thinking: "Every night the same thing. Why do these people come to see us every night?" He probably didn't appreciate how much we all enjoyed having him there.