Singapore (by Dickie B)                                                                      April 1, 2000

(Warning!!!  The following contains gratuitous anthropomorphism and careless use of stereotypes.  If you have a weak constitution with regard to these practices, too bad.)

As I’ve traveled, it has become clear that cities have distinct personalities and can be likened to people I’ve met or stereotyped.  Like, you know, Los Angeles is a valley girl.  Chicago is Joe down at the bar.  And, if you’re from California, or other areas with prominent Asian populations, you'll recognize Singapore.  He’s the average kid’s worst nightmare at school.  He never misses a day, studies round-the-clock, is respectful of parents and teachers, and actually thinks all this is OK.

Singapore in its current reincarnation is still a youngster.  Most of what you see has been developed since the mid-sixties.  Common wisdom is that it has had a strict upbringing.  Our previous home, San Francisco, had an unofficial nickname of "The City That Knows How".  Based on the abundance of official and unofficial rules for proper ocnduct, Singapore is "The City That No’s."  For example, you’re probably aware that possession of chewing gum is against the law here.  An undercurrent of apprehension among residents suggests that Dad is still keeping close tabs on behavior.  As dutiful offspring, you still listen to what your folks say is right and follow their lead without too much argument.

For us, Singapore started showing off at the airport:  we barely slowed down for immigration, snatched awaiting baggage from the conveyor, nodded to the folks in customs, secured Singapore dollars from the ATM, and were escorted into a waiting taxi.  Expired time: perhaps ten minutes.  An impressive introduction to a city trying to set a standard by which other cities will be measured.  (Note: Don't be confused by my reference to Singapore as a city.  It is a sovereign country.)

Although we were there primarily to visit our friends, Steve, Anne and Marguerite,  Uncle Sam back in the states was expecting tax returns by the April deadline.  I was pleased to be able to access web sites via high-speed internet links to download the latest tax forms and update my TurboTax software.  Singapore is into hi-tech electronic gear big time.  One morning, we watched part of the Oscars live on a huge TV screen in the atrium of a multi-level mall dominated by computer and camera shops.  Cellular phones will soon be implanted behind everyone's ear.  Not really, but Singaporeans must lead the world in their use.

Our trips into the city could have been lessons in how traffic problems can be avoided.  Start by making it very expensive to own a car.  Develop a responsive and affordable taxi service.  Build an underground railway connecting planned living areas with downtown business and shopping.  Implement an automatic system for charging drivers extra to pass through critical traffic areas at rush hour.  Install cameras to discourage speeding.  And possibly most important, enforce the laws.

Anytime we were in downtown districts, we were overwhelmed by the shopping opportunities.  In addition to having the latest electronic gadgets, Singapore wears the current fads from around the world, plays with the hottest toys, and decorates its homes in an amazing range of styles.  The first few floors of virtually every building are devoted to the retail trade.  Madonna's Material Girl would find heaven here.

Despite its rush to the future, Singapore retains elements of its heritage.  Anne arranged for us to tour the grounds of Chijmes, a former Christian church, school and orphanage that now hosts upscale restaurants and boutiques.  Inside the Chijmes' gates, you're back in Singapore's 19th century colonial period.  As we learned on another tour, Feng Shui principles must still be considered in the design of even the most modern buildings.  Our introduction to this ancient system of rules began with a visit to a geomancer, Master Tan.  He advises a wide range of clients on maximizing good chi, or the positive force, when planning homes and offices.  Some concepts are a bit mystical, but many make excellent sense after a little thought.  By the end of the day, we had seen Feng Shui influences on many buildings, old and new, throughout the city.

Our nights in the city were an indication of the variety Singapore offers visitors.  An unusual and exciting evening awaited us at the Night Zoo / Safari.  In this specially built facility, we wandered along darkened paths in a tropical rain forest, discovering habitats of familiar and exotic beasts at every turn.  With the added charm of having two-year-old Marguerite along, spying on the animals in the subdued lighting was an almost surrealistic experience.  Another evening we dinner-cruised around the harbor on an authentic Chinese junk.  From the boat we got a better view of Singapore's raison d'être, the shipping port.  It's touted as the most efficient in the world.  Cargo handling is fully mechanized and computerized.  Singapore has even gone so far as investing in (i.e. being able to exert control over) facilities in other Asian ports to better coordinate the flow of goods through its waters.  We also had to see the famed Raffles Hotel and its Long Bar, so we got tickets for what turned out to be an very funny evening of highbrow English comedy in the hotel's theater.  Like Chijmes, Raffles is a reminder of Singapore's early colonial period.

Singapore seems to be managing the challenges facing any large city and modern country quite well.  It presents an appealing face, it's populace is well educated (keeping kids in school 10+ hours a day), and it doesn't appear to want to rest on it's laurels.  A die-hard civil libertarian might have a conniption fit here, but it is hard to argue with results.   Besides, when the kid grows up the folks may be able to let up a little.

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