Bandon Dunes Golf and the Oregon Coast                                 July 15, 2006

This is our third driving trip along the Oregon coast.  We'd driven past the Bandon Dunes Resort in 2001, and again two years ago heading south from Vancouver, but Dick wasn't inclined to ante up for the hefty greens fees (currently $225 a round) to golf at Bandon Dunes, either because the weather was too iffy or because his golf game was too iffy.  This time however I used our 30th wedding anniversary as the occasion to book two nights at the lodge and three days of golf (one day playing 36 holes).  I'd recently read that playing the Dunes is a "don't miss it" type of opportunity, and we'd already missed it twice!

Only seven years old, Bandon Dunes golf has received impressive awards and recommendations.  For example, two of the three courses are ranked number 4 and 6 in Golf Digest's list of America's 100 Greatest Public Courses (2005-6).  And Fodor's rates it the number two golf resort in the country (number one being Pebble Beach).  Carts aren't permitted on any of the Bandon Dunes courses -- it's walkers only, and pulling carts up some of the steps can be awkward.  We carried our bags or took caddies.  There are 350+ working caddies (currently costing about $75 per bag with tip) and a good one is an asset on these difficult, undulating greens and especially for the formidable approach shots, where it's critical to land the ball in the right place.  Like many Scottish links courses, the bunkers on these courses are treacherous and tend to suck in balls.  I explored way too many of these!

The Oregon Coast is often cool and rainy, but we were fortunate to have three days of temperatures in low 70's with plenty of afternoon sun.  One of our rounds included about 15 minutes of light rain and another had quite a bit of fog on the first nine, but Dick had prepared me for playing in "Scottish" weather--lots of rain and wind--so I was reasonably pleased with the conditions.

We started on the newest of the courses, Bandon Trails, which has some of the wonderful links-type ocean scenery of the other courses, but also has a variety of holes through the woods.  This is a good afternoon golf choice, as the trees provide some protection from the often-strong ocean breezes.

Bandon Dunes and Pacific Dunes are the more famous courses.  They are truly picturesque, links-style courses that are fun to play and to sightsee.  These photos give you an idea of what to expect when you're not playing the holes that are right on the ocean bluffs.  Those views are an order of magnitude better! 

We played right in front of this year's US women's amateur Curtis Cup team as they tried their hand on the Pacific Dunes course, where the cup will be contested later this month.  They finished in the requisite 4 hours and 20 minutes, as did we.

Housing options include the Lodge and quite a few expensive cabins.  The lodge and the two main restaurants are low-key and good value, reasonable prices for a resort.  We loved the "take-out" breakfast sandwich (bacon and eggs), which WE "ate-in" the restaurant; it was a bargain at $5.  All in all, Bandon Dunes resort conveyed a hominess of serenity and tranquility.  I expect it will stay that way, even if they do build the other two courses and additional lodging that's currently in the planning.

Half the pleasure of a trip to Bandon Dunes is getting there.  It's far off the beaten track -- 3.5 hours from Ashland, or Eugene and a bit further from Portland.  One way to get there is to take the wonderfully scenic drive along the coast. Since we've retired we've driven the coast from Carmel, CA to the northern tip of Washington--most portions at least twice.  Plan to drive south if you can, since the scenic pull-offs are all on the ocean side and thus much easier to access.  Of course in some places it's definitely safer to be on the inside of the road. 

The Oregon Coast is peppered with state parks, beaches and scenic lighthouses.  The area around the towns of Bandon and Cannon Beach also have interesting boulders offshore, while north of Coos Bay huge sand dunes stretch for miles.  This trip we spent two nights in Newport, which boasts an excellent aquarium, a scenic bridge and a lovely lighthouse at Yaquina Head.  Moreover we got a great deal on an attractive ocean-view room at the Elizabeth Street Inn.  Ask for their "walk-in" rate. 

Bandon Dunes Golf and the Oregon Coast -- NOT a once in a lifetime opportunity, since I definitely want to do them again!