Savannah and Georgia Golf April 20, 2001
With Hilton Head full of tourists (and no last minute cancellations) we continued our unhurried drive through Georgia.
Georgia Golf -- When one thinks of golf in The South, Hilton Head, Pinehurst, and Myrtle Beach come to mind. Over the past 10 years Alabama's Robert Trent Jones (RTJ) Trail has become a destination for quality, reasonably-priced golf (about $60, incl. cart). We played two of these courses (and one of the RTJ's excellent par 3 layouts) this time through and can attest to their well-deserved reputation for challenging golf, especially to the difficulty of getting onto and putting the well-bunkered, multi-tiered, elevated greens.
But this year we've came across a REAL golf deal -- golf at the Georgia State Parks . There are 7 state park courses (including one par-3) scattered around the state. Cut through pine forests and near lakes, they are quiet, uncluttered by homes, well-maintained and pleasurably walkable (a big plus). Though one is permitted to walk the RTJ courses, it's really not practical; they're a long hike and you'd have to jog to keep up with the group in front. In contrast, the Georgia State Park (GSP) courses are good walks, and the greens are neither as tricky nor as bunkered.
The incredible part of GSP golf is the price. The courses charge between $16 and $26 for a day's worth of unlimited golf, and just in case that's not cheap enough, there's a 5-day card for $59!!!! We played Georgia Vets in Cordele and Little Ocmulgee in McRae. Both excellent, 3.5-star courses with plenty of opportunities to get in trouble. The only downside to GSP golf is the limited dining and lodging choices; the parks and thus the courses are pretty much in the middle of nowhere or near rather small towns. Still, unless you need luxury accommodations or fine dining, you'll love the courses and the local facilities are OK. All in all, highly recommended for the frugal golfer.
Savannah, the Genteel South -- Savannah is Georgia's first city, and likely its best. There are loads of historic bed and breakfasts downtown, but these are rather pricey. For those of us using motel coupon books, there were several 3-star motels about 10 miles outside of town worked quite well.
Savannah has in recent years renovated and restored many of its historical homes; these now provide a wonderful ambiance and charm to the city. Unlike most "big cities", there aren't high rises or traffic jams in Savannah. Instead, the pace is slow. Its 16 squares, covered by huge trees towering over inviting park benches, suggest sitting down or a leisurely stroll. You can meander along River Street and City Market if you're looking for gifts, but there are also restaurants and antique shops to stumble upon when you wander off the beaten track.
Several historic homes are open for touring, (AAA recommends the Owens --Thomas House on Oglethorpe Sq., which has a good tour) but my favorite place was the Telfair Art Museum. It has two rooms furnished in period and several beautiful gallery rooms, currently home to a special exhibit of Frederick Frieseke's (Free zik ee) oils. No, I'd never heard of him either, but obviously other's have; many of the pieces were on loan from other museums, and he was described as "America's most famous Impressionist." He painted wonderful pictures of girls and women (often nude) in the other-world light of the gardens at Giverny. An unexpected treat.
About an hour outside Savannah is Hilton Head. We drove there just to see what we'd missed. Hilton Head Island seems to be one very large upscale resort, hidden behind overhanging trees and private gates, broken into a mosaic of sections, many complete with golf courses and/or marinas. Since there's one main road in, the traffic was a bit too hectic for Dick (who thankfully does almost all the driving), but I thought the place had a really relaxing low-key feel. The restaurant at the Harbour Town lighthouse has views of the marina and Calibogue Sound. The America's Cup sail boat, Stars and Stripes (or more likely one of it's duplicate sisters) was docked nearby, ready to take tourists for a sail. After lunch, as we watched some hackers totally miss the 18th green, we wished were playing the golf. This is a trophy course and should be on my list.
Perhaps next time we'll organize hotel reservations and tee times well in advance. Most likely it just requires some planning, especially if one wants to come for the busiest week of the year. Still, we don't often plan very far ahead, and we did get to see Sweet Georgia instead.