Perhaps I expected too much.  It certainly wouldn't be the first time...

 

The Stewart Island Lodge is an expensive B&B (NZ$ 430 a night).  It sits on a steep hillside (a short, straight-up walk) overlooking Stewart Island's Half Moon Bay, with its small islands, simple wharf and two dozen anchored boats (see photo). 

First, let's highlight the positives.  Our room, one of 5 ensuite guestrooms, was well appointed and pleasant: pale green walls, a king-size bed with attractive bedspread and pillow shams and a down comforter, two navy,ultra-suede armchairs facing the floor to ceiling windows, a narrow little desk with a real flower arrangement and nice wooden bedside tables.  There was fresh fruit and even a bowl of cherries. The windows looked out to the partially-covered wooden deck and the Bay.  (Though for privacy it was necessary to draw the curtains.)  The deck was a good place to read or watch the native birds that came for the set-out sugar water.  Below is a photo of a visiting NZ tui. 

Our bed was turned down the night we enjoyed the lodge's 3-course dinner (priced about $80, including a a glass or two of wine at the cocktail hour).  Dinner was served in the attractive, small dining room, which regrettably is the only common room.  Overall, the Lodge is comfortable, pleasantly decorated and more than adequate. 

 

But for the price, I expected more.  The included breakfast was a continental breakfast with cheese.  No meats, no salads.  One can order eggs, but tit costs $12 for two plain eggs -- no potatoes, no grilled tomato, not even a sprig of parsley!  Perhaps it's the little things that make the difference.  For example, a night light to help find the bathroom, a bathroom rug to prevent my feet getting cold on the tile floor, a line or rack to hang out our wet clothes (this IS in the rain forest), some pretty stationary and a pen (both of which I actually needed) and of course hosts who go out of their way to make you feel special.  Unfortunately, the Stewart Island Lodge missed the boat on these. 

 

Doug and Margaret Wright, the Lodge hosts were quite agreeable, but they seemed to be only as helpful and friendly as they needed to be.  They gave me a business card and phone number for a guide, and advised me to make my own plans.  Surprisingly, the local phone call cost 50 cents for the first minute.  Doug did drive us to Golden Bay (an up and down, 20-minute walk) at 8:15 one morning to meet our guide.  (Perhaps so Margaret wouldn't have to fix breakfast too early?)  But he didn't offer to pick us up afterwards, and apparently didn't think of it, even though it had rained for the entire four hours we were out, and it was raining steadily when we returned. 

 

Learning about a place from its locals can be a special part of the B&B experience.  Sadly, I never had a chance to find out anything about our hosts or even about the lodge.  Instead,  we chatted with the other guests (Americans and Europeans, while we were there.)  It's a shame our hosts didn't join us for the cocktail hour, especially as dinner was cooked and served by others.  I'm sure their insights, perspectives and stories about Stewart Island would have enhanced the experience for their guests.

 

I don't mean to suggest that the Stewart Island Lodge isn't any good; it's quite fine.  But for the price, I expected more.  Dick and I agree: go elsewhere if you're looking for value for your money.