Jerusalem –
The Old City
April 15, 2000
It’s difficult to comprehend the complexity of Jerusalem in just a few days.
This city is like a diamond, different facets shimmering as the light shifts.
We were introduced to
Jerusalem through two full-day tours. Even so, we only skimmed the surface of what there is to see
and assimilate. A week with a guide, in a small group, building up
knowledge layer by layer is what's needed. Still, after two days of
structured touring,
we were anxious to wander the streets at our own pace.
First a little history to put
things in perspective. Jerusalem is the land of the Bible. Back in
1000 BC King David captured Jerusalem, made it the capital of the Kingdom of
Israel and built the first Temple.
Then came the Babylonians and the destruction of the Temple, followed by conquering armies
from Persia and Greece. Five
hundred years later in 516 BC the Hebrews again controlled Jerusalem and built
the Second Temple. Here
Jesus, according to the New Testament, disparaged the high priests. At that time, the
Romans and their
puppet, the Jewish King Herod, controlled the City. During the
unsuccessful Jewish revolts of 70 AD, the Second Temple was destroyed.
Thereafter (in 324 AD) the Romans were overcome by the Byzantines, who mandated Christianity
for the populace. Then in 691 AD the Arabs gained control of
Jerusalem and built their Temple, the Dome of the Rock. Time and again,
Jerusalem and the surrounding area was overrun. Jerusalem has seen many cultures, wars and displacements
over the last 3000 years. During the last century, the
British captured Jerusalem (in 1917) from the Turks by merely marching into the city; they held it as
a protectorate for 30 years. And finally
(for now) after the Israeli War of Independence in 1948 and the Seven-Day War in
1967, all of Jerusalem is a part of Israel. It's worth noting that some of the Palestinians who fled
during these recent wars are still refugees today.
Walking through the Old City of
Jerusalem, it 
becomes clear why this city is so important to the world’s
monotheistic religions – it’s crowded with history, religious
artifacts, houses of worship and holy sites. For example, there’s the
Via Dolorosa where Jesus carried the cross, now marked with its 14 stations, and
ending at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, built where Jesus was supposed to
have been washed and buried. Today it's not uncommon to see pilgrims carrying a cross
through Jerusalem's narrow streets, singing hymns and praying.
From
the hills of Jerusalem, the most visible landmark in the Old City is the golden (real!) Dome of the Rock, one of the
most revered of Muslim shrines. Although not mentioned in the
Koran (and perhaps only "discovered" when the Arabs conquered
Jerusalem), the Muslim faithful today believe that when Mohammed died, he flew
upon his horse to the large rock enshrined in this mosque, ascending to heaven from this
spot. The site and the associated large
active mosque have limited visiting hours for non-Muslims; our wait for the afternoon opening
lasted 45 minutes. Security is tight, and getting through the
checkpoint is slow; the major concern here is likely to be about Jewish extremists.
Then there are the Jewish holy sites, the
most important being what remains of the Western Wall of the Second
Temple, what is now known as the Wailing Wall. To enter the Wailing Wall
quadrangle also requires a security check; here the concern is likely to be about Arab terrorists.
It’s easy to imagine biblical
Jerusalem while walking through the ancient gates of this
walled enclave, or while meandering down the narrow alleys, or while climbing
over the rooftops (which we did with a help of "local" guide who
convinced us we needed his services.)
The stone blocks of the city walls tell stories. As they change in size, the layers of
history unfold. The larger the blocks, the older the structure. Recent excavations have unearthed a series
of Roman columns under the Jewish quarter. These once flanked the Via Cardo,
the city's major thoroughfare in Christ's day. Laid on top of these
foundations is the "Old Jerusalem" of today. Its alleyways still
contain homes and flats. And its stepped streets are full of gift shops and markets, where haggling over the price of a souvenir is
expected and part of
the fun.
Jerusalem, what a jewel.
Full of wondrous, diverse and exciting sights. For more, click below.
The Other
Jerusalems
Home
Romans and their
puppet, the Jewish King Herod, controlled the City. During the
unsuccessful Jewish revolts of 70 AD, the Second Temple was destroyed.
Thereafter (in 324 AD) the Romans were overcome by the Byzantines, who mandated Christianity
for the populace. Then in 691 AD the Arabs gained control of
Jerusalem and built their Temple, the Dome of the Rock. Time and again,
Jerusalem and the surrounding area was overrun. Jerusalem has seen many cultures, wars and displacements
over the last 3000 years. During the last century, the
British captured Jerusalem (in 1917) from the Turks by merely marching into the city; they held it as
a protectorate for 30 years. And finally
(for now) after the Israeli War of Independence in 1948 and the Seven-Day War in
1967, all of Jerusalem is a part of Israel. It's worth noting that some of the Palestinians who fled
during these recent wars are still refugees today.
