‘Tis a Fine Day in
Scotland
June 20, 2000
Living in Scotland forces one to redefine the
phrase "a fine day." A fine day here is one where:
1) the sun has been or will be out for at least one hour,
2) the rain comes down
in nothing more than a light drizzle, and
3) the wind blows at a less than 15 mph.
This past weekend had two fine
days. (Note by RLB: Déjà vu! All the locals are telling us, just
as they were in New Zealand, that the weather is terrible for this time of
year. Either we’re jinxes, or people are generally in denial concerning
their weather.)
Saturday was a fine day.
We set off into the countryside toward the town of Peebles, about 20 miles
south, with no particular reason in mind. The drive reveals the lush green
of Scotland (all that rain does it) with overgrown vegetation lining the
roads. Mid-June is still Spring, so yellow, white and purple wildflowers
patch the hillsides. The terrain around Edinburgh is hilly, with pastoral
views visible over the rock fences that define property boundaries and road
edges.
After checking out a golf course and spending
about an hour in the Edinburgh Crystal factory visitor center in Penecuik, we
parked just outside Peebles. Peebles
is
an old town adjacent to the River Tweed and built around several large granite
churches. Its single main street is about a third of a mile long, with a
few short alleyways, quickly leading off into obscurity. It’s a tourist
town, so the streets are clean, well maintained, and busy on a fine day.
There are crafts shops, restaurants, bakeries, gift shops and the ever-present,
second-hand, charity shops to explore. Along
both sides of the river, there are grassy parklands (the Peebles Park?)
enhanced by a long riverside walking path.
Peebles is typical of many Scottish country towns: it's attractive, a nice
stop-over, and it takes about an hour to explore.
A
visit to the "i" center gave us our next destination: six miles
down the River Tweed to Traquair, the oldest continually inhabited House in
Scotland. It’s a gray, 4-story, stone building that has been home to the
Stuart family since 1500, though its history goes back another 300 years!
The historical high point for Traquair was a visit in 1566 by Mary, Queen of
Scots, her husband Lord Darnley and her infant son James. James succeeded
to the Scottish throne on Mary's forced abdication in 1567 at the age of 13
months. Later, to improve the prospects of his succeeding to the English
throne, James later allied himself with Elizabeth I, rather than with his
mother's party. Having been separated from Mary for 19 years, he
apparently calmly accepted the news of her execution in 1587. In 1603 he
became James 1, King of England, uniting England with Scotland. James was
a believer in the divine right of kings and of course in God.
He was responsible for the King James translation of the Bible in 1611.
For more history about James, click
here.
There were many fascinating things in
the House at Traquair: furniture, books, embroidery, letters, although no one
piece was
remarkable. One fun thing is the 20-year old Traquair Maze in the back
garden. It was easy to lose one’s way trying to find the center, though
Dick seems to be quite a good rat. Keeping a house like Traquair open
takes lots of money. To make ends meet, Traquair charges an admission fee,
sells guidebook,
and has a gift shop. Traquair also rents out its ancient chapel for
weddings, lets rooms, and brews three types of ales. It’s not easy being a
Laird! I'm sorry we didn't book a night at Traquair -- a place that plays
a part in all that history.
Sunday was also a fine day.
So we set off for a walk into downtown Edinburgh. It’s only 25 minutes to either
end of Princes Street. However, you can’t get directly to the middle of
downtown from here; Edinburgh Castle, atop its huge rocky outcropping, bars the way.
A walk to historical downtown is picturesque
and pleasant. It includes strolls through some local neighborhoods and downtown gardens
with views of Edinburgh Castle and some large statues. (On weekdays,
there are also shops and shoppers to check out.)
On a Sunday morning, Church bells ring out
wildly and seemly at random. Shops open late, or not at all. The
city streets are quiet with only a few cars to dodge. History is easier to
sense, without the distractions of everyday life. The cobblestone streets of Old
Town, the narrow alleyways, and the hidden courtyards beckon. As we
wandered, a sign directed us to a building built circa 1650 with a spiral stone
staircase. The sign said "View St. James Square". So up we
climbed, round and round the ancient stairwell. Surprisingly (at least to
us), it wasn’t a tourist attraction. The building was being renovated,
and two of the flats were available for "viewing". Their windows
overlooked the Royal Mile, the oldest and most famous street in Edinburgh.
The viewing was intended to ascertain a selling price for the flats and to gauge
public interest in additional renovations, before the owners spent any more
money. The flat seemed a bit pricey to me, but the location was perfect
(so long as you didn't want to park a car anywhere nearby).
Later, as we pass through the Meadows,
a large inner-city park with its tree-lined walkway, only
the occasional droplet of rain reminds me that ‘tis a fine day -- rather than
a glorious one – here in Scotland.
Home
is
an old town adjacent to the River Tweed and built around several large granite
churches. Its single main street is about a third of a mile long, with a
few short alleyways, quickly leading off into obscurity. It’s a tourist
town, so the streets are clean, well maintained, and busy on a fine day.
There are crafts shops, restaurants, bakeries, gift shops and the ever-present,
second-hand, charity shops to explore. Along
both sides of the river, there are grassy parklands (the Peebles Park?)
enhanced by a long riverside walking path.
Peebles is typical of many Scottish country towns: it's attractive, a nice
stop-over, and it takes about an hour to explore.